If you watched this video, I hope you enjoyed the outtakes.
Many people have heard me say that I believe you appreciate something more when you create it yourself than when you purchase it. But in addition to that, while making this acrylic fillet knife handle for a fundraiser, I found that there is a different, purpose-filled feeling when you make something for someone else and don’t expect any compensation.
I have used several different techniques to make several different types of knives, and I previously created a post and video of a kitchen knife handle that I made from rosewood. I have also made a fillet knife for myself in which I used hand tools for the entire project. But let’s take a look at how I made this one.
When working on any knife handle, It’s probably important to make sure that you don’t cut yourself. I prefer to leave an overlap of tape covering the edge of the blade. You know… just in case. On a fillet knife, watch out for the pointy end.
Word to the wise – save yourself some trouble and cover anything you don’t want coated in epoxy with painter’s tape.
Regardless of what material you use, make sure you have enough to cover the handle material. Unless you prefer a different look. For this project I’m using a purple sharpie to outline the handle.
With acrylic you also run the risk of the ink smearing if your hands get sweaty.
If you watch the video, I give some advice on securing the two knife scales together. For this knife I used the scroll saw to cut off the excess material. I have also used a coping saw to do this.
Acrylic has the benefit of melting back together when heated up. And friction makes things hotter. So when you add friction to acrylic, such as when cutting it with a scroll saw, the material can melt back together. But I used a rubber mallet to gently whack the edge of the scales, thus removing what I tried to cut off. As cool as acrylic is, wood is an easier material to work with.
Securing the handle to the scales, drill the proper sized holes through it (the scale, not the handle). The best way to do this is with a drill press, but not everyone has one. My previous video gives some advice if you can only drill by hand.
Drill the holes in one of the scales, then attach the other and drill that side. Using a sacrificial block keeps you from drilling into your table.
Spread epoxy on the scale and also on the handle. There are many different pins that you can use. Some kits come with decent pins, but if you want to class it up a bit, there are some pins that are quite fancy. You can also pick up some basic materials for less expensive from a hardware store. Just make sure you have the correct size.
This fillet knife handle comes with its own pins that are pretty decent, so that’s what I’m using. Why use something else when you have what you need?
Follow the instructions on the epoxy you are using for proper dry time. After it sets up you can start the fun. Use whatever you have to remove the bulk of the material that you don’t want, along with the hardened epoxy. Power tools work the best since they take off a lot in a quicker amount of time.
As you can see, I have secured a belt sander to my table. You can use a drum sander, disk sander, or whatever works. I don’t like when people say that you’re doing it wrong because it’s not how they do it. If it works for you, then it works. I used rasps and files on other handles and they haven’t fallen apart yet, so you can’t tell me that I did it wrong.
The belt sander is great for removing the bulk of the material from the areas that it can reach. But some areas can’t be accessed so easily. I purchased this drum sander kit and it has definitely been worth the little amount of money that I paid for it.
I started with the 50 grit drum to remove the bulk of the material that couldn’t be reached by the belt sander. When I had the shape that I wanted, I switched to 120 grit to create a smoother surface. I then used some sanding pads to finish off with.
When I create a handle with acrylic, I use No. 7 Polishing Compound to create a nice shine. I did a lot of research on the best product to use, and this seemed to be the consensus of many people. When using a buffer, it’s best to use one product per buffer. If you have used your buffer with another finish/polish, it’s best to get a new pad.
The material you use, and what purpose you are making the handle for, will determine what finishing product is best. I have used mineral oil on some wooden handles, which have to be maintained more often. I’ve also used Salad Bowl Finish, but it appears they have changed this product and the new version has some complaints. If you would like some suggestions, feel free to reach out to me.
Thanks for checking out the video and thanks for checking out this article. As always, if you have any questions, suggestions, etc. please let me know. But what’s most important is to have fun creating your next project.